Daffodils at my place bloom beginning in mid-February. The earliest are tazettas of the 'paperwhite narcissus' type and trumpets. Trumpets above were planted some 40 years ago when true King Alfreds were still readily available.
These are paperwhites forced two years ago,
spent bulbs planted out to recover and bloom again.
Some reasons for failure of daffodils to bloom or return include disease and fungus.
Buying from a reputable source increases the chance for good bulbs.
Daffodils need a certain amount of chill to bloom well. We had an exceptionally cold January. I believe this is why daffodils here bloomed so well this year. We are at the southern limits for good bloom.
More Ice Follies.
Location, drainage and nutrition will affect bloom.
Too much nitrogen leads to lush foliage with few blossoms.
Tete a Tete
Tete a Tete and Jet Fire
At the end of these were tiny clumps of Rip Van Winkle.
I dug all of them last week and moved to a new location,
planted more shallowly in an attempt to force bloom next year.
In an ideal garden, bulbs will be underplanted with groundcovers.
Yellow cordyalis seen here is a native wildflower, self-planted.
I don't remember the name of this daffodil. It might be a
Fortune hybrid. Close up is young foliage of California poppies.
Pretend you don't see chickweed. Hot sun will kill it soon.
Overcrowding leads to poor bloom as does stress from transplanting.
On the other hand, poor bloomers may need to be moved to a
location with better drainage, richer soil, more sunshine.
I moved several dozen daffodils last week that refused to bloom.
I wondered if they were planted too deep, so I set them shallow.
The foliage of these will ripen as the lantana around them returns for
summer bloom. Dead lantana plants make a great mulch.
There are annuals coming up and perennials in the
ground behind. Succession of bloom takes planning.
Even with planning I get surprises -- and some failures.
Mixed daffodils make the best show if the various cultivars
bloom pretty much together. Deadheading the early bloomers
will let the later blossoms shine.
Pink Charm, Ice Wings and Sailboat bloom at the same time.
Yellow Sweetness in the background tends to
have secondary blooms where it is happy
(I have some in shade that are shy to bloom at all.
Some of them were transplanted, too.)
Sometimes bulbs disappear from one year to the next.
Among the culprits may be drought, squirrels digging, fungus rot,
poor soil or poor drainage.
Pink Charm, my fav.
I've planted Pink Charm bulbs from the dollar store.
They usually grew and bloomed about as well as
the ones from more traditional sources.
'Daffodil' calls to mind yellow trumpets. I look forward to white cultivars
The heirloom triandrus Hawera is very dependable. I divided older clumps to start these.
More Hawera, this week. These bloom a little later because they
are under a little dogwood under a live oak tree.
Not the most hospitable site but they don't seem to mind.
This is a very old heirloom double that has been here
for decades. It illustrates how tough a daffodil is.
I think this is Carlton. It was open for
Bloom Day in February.
Most daffodils here bloomed early this year. I think the prolonged cold in January was sufficient that when the weather warmed in February they were ready to come out.
Next year may be entirely different. Some may even sulk for a season and not bloom at all.
I'll be expecting them the next year and I hope to have some new cultivars.
There are still buds emerging. I'm hoping to see Misty Glen, always late, and Baby Moon soon.
If you haven't daffodils I hope you will buy some this fall.
If you have daffodils I hope you will buy more. And some hyacinths.